The Ultimate Guide to Mulching Raised Bed Gardens

Hey all! Real Farmer Jeff here.

Mulching your raised beds is one of the simplest, highest-impact things you can do for your garden. While it certainly enhances the garden’s appearance, the real benefits go far beyond aesthetics. For me, mulching is essential to maintaining a healthy, thriving garden.

In this guide, I will share some of the best garden mulches with pros and cons, as well as some of the top benefits of mulching your garden.

Let’s get started!

Benefits of Mulching

• Moisture Retention: Reduces evaporation, keeping soil moist longer.
• Temperature Regulation: Keeps soil cooler in summer and warmer in early spring/fall.
• Weed Suppression: Blocks sunlight to prevent weed germination.
• Soil Health: Organic mulches break down and enrich the soil.
• Erosion Control: Protects soil from wind and water erosion.
• Pest Management: Some mulches deter pests or invite beneficial insects.
• Disease Control: Prevents soil from splashing onto leaves, reducing disease risk (especially important for tomatoes).

Types of Mulch for Raised Beds: Pros and Cons

1. Straw (Not Hay):

Dried stalks left over after grain crops like wheat or oats are harvested. Often sold in bales. Best for vegetable gardens and annual beds.

Pros	Cons
Excellent weed suppressant	Can blow away in windy areas
Lightweight and easy to apply	May harbor weed seeds if it’s hay or not seed-free straw
Breaks down and enriches soil	Needs regular replacement (every season or so)

2. Shredded Leaves / Leaf Mold:

Fallen leaves shredded into small pieces. Leaf mold is partially decomposed leaf matter. Best for all garden beds, especially when aged.

Pros	Cons
Free and abundant in fall	Fresh leaves can mat and block water if not shredded
Rich in organic matter	High carbon content may temporarily tie up nitrogen if incorporated into soil too early
Improves soil texture as it decomposes

3. Compost:

Decomposed organic matter made from kitchen scraps, plant material, or manure. Rich and crumbly. Best for vegetable beds and areas needing nutrient boosts.

Pros	Cons
Nutrient-rich—feeds plants directly	May not suppress weeds as well as bulkier mulches
Improves soil structure	Needs replenishing more frequently
Great for seedlings and top dressing	Can crust over if exposed directly to sun

If you live in a small space like me, it can be difficult to find the space in your backyard dedicated to composting. I have a kitchen composter that is quite small, odorless, and can turn food scraps into compost within a matter of 24 hours. I’ve linked it here.

4. Wood Chips / Bark Mulch (Aged):

Chipped or shredded wood and bark from tree trimmings or sawmill by-products. Aged to reduce nitrogen draw. Best for perennial beds and pathways around raised beds.

Pros	Cons
Long-lasting	Not ideal for direct contact with vegetables—can tie up nitrogen in the topsoil
Excellent weed control	Can be slow to break down
Visually tidy and attractive	Fresh chips may rob nitrogen from plants if mixed into soil

5. Grass Clippings:

Fresh or dried cuttings from lawn mowing. Should be free of herbicides or pesticides. Best for vegetable beds (use sparingly and only untreated clippings).

Pros	Cons
Readily available and rich in nitrogen	Can mat and become slimy if applied too thickly
Usually FREE if you have a lawn!	Must be pesticide/herbicide free
Breaks down quickly	May encourage weed seeds if collected from a weedy lawn
Adds fertility to soil

6. Pine Needles (Pine Straw):

Fallen needles from pine trees. Light and airy in texture. Best for acid-loving plants like blueberries; pathways.

Pros	Cons
Light and easy to apply	Slightly acidifying (though minimal effect in most soils)
Doesn’t compact easily	Not nutrient-rich
Slow to break down; long-lasting	May not suppress weeds as effectively on its own

7. Newspaper or Cardboard (Sheet Mulching):

Layers of plain black-and-white newspaper or corrugated cardboard used as a biodegradable weed barrier. Best for under other mulch layers to block weeds.

Ink Safety Note: Modern newspapers generally use soy-based or vegetable inks, which are garden-safe. However, avoid:

• Glossy pages, magazines, or color inserts
• Older publications (may contain petroleum-based or heavy metal inks). These may introduce toxins into the soil or harm microbes.

Pros	Cons
Excellent weed barrier	Needs to be weighted down or covered to prevent blowing away
Recyclable and biodegradable	Not visually appealing on its own

8. Living Mulch (Cover Crops / Ground Covers):

Low-growing plants (like clover, vetch, or creeping thyme) that act as a living protective layer. Best for long-term soil health and erosion prevention.

Pros	Cons
Feeds the soil when turned in or cut back	Requires maintenance and planning
Protects soil from erosion and temperature extremes	May compete with crops if not well-managed
Can attract beneficial insects	Not suitable for every crop type or growing stage

Tips for Effective Mulching

• Depth Matters: Apply 2 – 3 inches of organic mulch for best results.
• Keep Off Stems: Avoid piling mulch directly against plant stems to prevent rot.
• Refresh Annually: Reapply or top up mulch each season as needed.
• Layering Helps: Consider using cardboard/newspaper beneath mulch for extra weed suppression.